In Northampton the home of England’s finest shoemakers they refer to shell cordovan as Crup. In our opinion Burgundy or Color 8 as we say in the States is one of the most beautiful colors. A deep crimson hue, which should be in every mans wardrobe. And like all shell cordovan colors the color varies as seen in the images below.
People are often surprised to hear that Edward Green makes shoes in Crup and in fact they make incredibly nice shoes in it. That is to say the leather is very clean with very little product on it and the shells are very clear meaning no imperfections. The result is obvious, a pair of shoes that looks and feels like a million buck or should we say pounds.
Here are a few examples of recent Edward Green MTO’s in Burgundy Crup. MTO is Made To Order these shoes are not in stock.
Arlington, 202 Last, Burgundy Crup, Dainite Soles – MTO
Newbury, 888 Last, Burgundy Crup, HAF Soles – MTO






















14 Comments
Very nice series of shoes, Steven. I continue to be impressed by what you are doing and what your customers are requesting. Bravo!
Wow, that Newbury in crup must have been a real pain to last!
Can EG make the Dover using crup?
Chris
Think about it one piece of shell with no margin for error the work of an extremely talented craftsman. This shoe is money!
Steven
Hi Divesh – EG told me they cannot make any of the handsewn styles in crup – so Dover would be out. They did make for me Westwood in Whiskey Crup and its a beauty!
Steven
1) When is the next Edward Green trunk show
2) What is the turnaround for a MTO order
These Edward Green makeups look awesome.
Anthony
Our next EG trunk show is May 5th. EG MTO’s take 12-14 weeks. you don;t need to wait until May we place orders all year around.
Steven
Divesh
Peter is correct because the hand sewing on the Dover is done with pig bristles it cannot be done in the Dover, Ecton or any other model with that sewing.
Steven
great post steven
I agree with Chris. I’m surprised that EG was able to make a whole cut using shell cordovan. Isn’t SC much less stretchable than calfskin?
Steve:
The answer to this question may be obvious, but I can’t think of it. If you order a pair of MTO shoes, what happens if you don’t like the way they come out; or they don’t fit right? If you order a custom suit, odds are the tailor can make adjustments but with shoes it doesn’t seem that that would be possible. If love some of these burgundy/crup shoes, but I think I would be hesitant to order them because of the concerns raised above. What is the answer?
Joe
Joe
We successfully order many MTO shoes for clients. We take great care to ensure the size and fit will be correct. If there’s a specific shoe you’re considering please contact me directly. I’ll be happy to discuss the process with you.
http://blog.leffot.com/mto-program/
Steven
Hi all, I’m the proud owner of the Arlington and the Newbury. I’m not sure if shell is inherently more difficult to work than calf or other hides; but judging from past MTO’s in shell, I don’t think this is an issue for EG. EG produces such consistent results in workmanship, fit and finish across all of their product line that I have no worries whatsoever in ordering MTO confident in receiving a shoe that will fit exactly like others of the same size and last. Dialing out the risk of quality allows me the pleasure to conjure up any and all combinations of style, last, color and hide.
Andy,
I believe shell cordovan IS more difficult to work with. It’s thicker than calfskin and will stretch less before tearing. However, I wouldn’t have any reservations about making a shoe to order in Crup, especially judging from the way your shoes turned out. I don’t think Edward Green or Leffot would make you keep a pair of shoes that had any quality control issues. But like Steven said, it would take a highly skilled person with absolutely no margin for error.
Now that I think if it, EG also hand clicks their leather. That must have been a real pain too!