journal: Dainite Soles

Edward Green Dover

The Dover is without doubt the quintessential Edward Green shoe. Tales of its handsewn apron and reverse split toe are legendary and rightfully so. Each is sewn by expert craftsmen who use pigs bristles rather than metal needles.

The preparation of the thread itself is a major undertaking combining several long strands and bonding them with wax then splitting the end of the bristle and lashing the thread to it.

So much of what goes into finely crafted shoes is taken for granted. It’s difficult to appreciate the level of skill, time and artisan-ship it takes to produce a pair if you haven’t seen it first hand. It’s remarkable really that in today’s high tech, automated world there are products which are still made by way of tradition. Something’s are best left unchanged.

Here are several Dover’s, that we recently received for clients. All of which were made to order.

Chestnut Antique 82 Last, HAF Soles

Burgundy Antique/Mahogany Country Calf 82 Last, Single Soles

Coffee Suede 606 Last, Dainite Soles

Walnut Country Calf  606 Last, Dainite Soles

Edwardian Antique 606 Last, HAF Soles

Edwardian Antique/Almond Country Calf 606 Last, Dainite Soles

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Edward Green MTO

Last week we had the pleasure of visiting the Edward Green factory in Northampton, England. What you realize as you watch and talk with the men and women that make the shoes is that shoes are only as good as the people who make them.

To make great shoes you need great people. These are highly skilled and talented craftsmen that take tremendous pride in what they do and it shows.

Thank you Hilary Freeman and the staff at Edward Green for your unwavering dedication to quality and tradition it is truly inspiring.

Westminster 888 Last, Burnt Pine Antique – MTO

Ifford 82 Last, Dark Oak/Mink Suede – MTO

Cardiff 202 Last, Edwardian Antique, Dainite Soles – MTO

Malvern 82 Last, Dark Oak Antique – MTO

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Get You Thru The Snow

Winter! When will it end? Not anytime soon, one month down but two to go. If you find yourself behind the snow curve we’re here for you.

And for maximum water protection be sure to use Montana Pitch Blend Leather Dressing on all your rugged leather boots.

Viberg, Peanut Bullhide, Vibram 132 Soles 

Quoddy, Woodsman Brown Chromexcel, Sheepskin Lined Crepe Soles

Viberg, Ink Blue Reverse Chromexcel, Vibram Christie Soles

Rider, Hobo Boot Rough Out Mohawk Leather, Sestriere Soles


Alden, 404 Indy Boots, TruBalance Last in Kudu Leather on Vibram Lug Soles

Wolverine 1000 Mile, W05300 Black Chromexcel


Edward Green, Galway 82 Last, Dark Oak/Walnut Country Calf, Dainite Soles



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Burgundy Crup

In Northampton the home of England’s finest shoemakers they refer to shell cordovan as Crup. In our opinion Burgundy or Color 8 as we say in the States is one of the most beautiful colors. A deep crimson hue, which should be in every mans wardrobe. And like all shell cordovan colors the color varies as seen in the images below.

People are often surprised to hear that Edward Green makes shoes in Crup and in fact they make incredibly nice shoes in it. That is to say the leather is very clean with very little product on it and the shells are very clear meaning no imperfections. The result is obvious, a pair of shoes that looks and feels like a million buck or should we say pounds.

Here are a few examples of recent Edward Green MTO’s in Burgundy Crup. MTO is Made To Order these shoes are not in stock.

Arlington, 202 Last, Burgundy Crup, Dainite Soles – MTO

Newbury, 888 Last, Burgundy Crup, HAF Soles – MTO

Inverness, 888 Last Burgundy Crup, HAF Soles – MTO

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The Galway

The Edward Green Galway is a classic English country boot, a gentleman’s boot if you will. The beauty of these is the versatility dressy enough to wear with a suit on damp days or as a smart casual boot.

Boots don’t have to be rugged to get the job done but they do need to be well made and Edward Green makes them as good as they get.

Now in stock in E width.

Galway 82 Last, Dark Oak/Walnut Country Calf, Dainite Soles

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The Dover

There’s not a lot you can say about the Edward Green Dover that hasn’t already been said. It’s arguably the quintessential EG shoe. This classic English derby can be worn with confidence and pride because it’s one of the finest styles in Edward Green’s collection.

Stories of the Dover’s handsewn apron are legendary; the closing is done with pig bristles because they’re finer than needles. It takes years to master the skill and only grade A1 closers are allowed to do it. It’s rather remarkable when you think about closing a shoe with bristles.

These are robust, well-built shoes ideal for less formal occasions when you need to look smart and well dressed. Our model in Walnut Country Calf and Dainite soles is great for foul weather as well. There are but a handful of shoes every man must own and this gentlemen is one of them.

Dover 606 Last, Walnut Country Calf, Dainite Soles

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Pass the Scotch – Grain

Just ahead of our G&G trunk show we received several new MTO shoes. These two struck me. They’re for two different clients but both were of the same mind. These two shoes are in Brown Highland Grain. I happen to be a big fan of Scotch Grains and think it’s an excellent choice for fall shoes.

Cannes KN14 (loafer) Last, Oak Bark Soles – MTO

Cannes - Leffot

They have another relation to each other besides the leather. The hand-sewn split toe Derby and Loafer makes for an interesting comparison, which is something you rarely see. Kind of like distant cousins.

Hove MH71 Last, Dainite Soles – MTO

Hove 2 - Leffot

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Wing It

Fall is in the air and wing tips are on my mind, apparently I’m not alone. There’s been a sudden spike in the number of clients looking for classic full brogues with double soles. I wear a couple of these models; I find them to be both versatile and classic. Here’s the line up.

Church’s Grafton Sandalwood Polished Binder, 173 Last

Church’s Grafton R Brown Nevada Calf, Dainite Soles, 173 Last

Alden Longwing Color 8 Shell Cordovan, Barrie Last

Church’s Grafton Black Polished Binder, 173 Last

 

FYI: We are considering a longwing make up for spring 2010. Tan suede, Barrie last on single flex welt soles with natural edges. Feedback welcome…

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