journal: wholecut

Wholecut Shoes

The beauty of a wholecut shoe is it’s clean smooth silhouette and unbroken lines. These are shoes made from a single piece of leather, which wraps around the feet like a baby’s swaddling blanket. As a result the fit is so comfortable you may never want to wear another style of shoe.

Wholecuts are more commonly made by English and European shoemakers, not so much by American manufacturers. Here are a few examples of some of the best in class.

Gaziano & Girling Cooper, Deco Last, Vintage Chestnut

St. Crispin Simply, Chiseled Last, Antique Burgundy

Alfred Sargent Milton, AS53 Last, Black Calfskin

 Edward Green Newbury, 888 Last, Burgundy Crup

Corthay Casanova, Sculpted Last, Vieux Bois Box Calf

St. Crispin 546, Riva Last, Dark Brown/Beige Piping

Gaziano & Girling Sinatra, TG73 Last, Black Calfskin

Corthay Belphegor, Sevres Last, Lie de Vin Box Calf

 

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Saint Crispin’s, Simply

The only thing simple about Saint Crispin’s “Simply” wholecut is the clean, smooth design of the shoe. Other than that it’s a complicated piece of footwear construction.

Made from a single piece of leather the only cut is the hole in the center that becomes the place you insert your feet. Wholecut shoes are special but almost all have a seam in the back, which makes lasting them easier.

The Simply is made without a seam something, which is quite unique. The shoe is stretched on the last with as much tension as is possible not to tear the leather. There it remains and is tightened over a period of 8-9 weeks in order to take on its smooth form.

To some this may not be a big deal but to men who truly appreciate the quality and craftsmanship of a finely hand-made pair of shoes it is something really special.

Our client G.D. in Montreal who ordered this pair is a bonafide shoe maven. He understands and appreciates it and we congratulate him on this wonderful pair of shoes.

¬†Saint Crispin’s Simply, Chiseled Last – MTO

 

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Corthay Satan, Bergeronette

Pierre Corthay’s shoes are wicked, you might even say satanic. In this case the name fits perfectly just like his shoes.

The Satan whole cut is an evil piece of shoemaking epitomized by the sculpted toe. These shoes are not for the timid or traditionalist they are bold and meant to be worn with a bit of devilish swagger.

We are stocking a limited number of Satan in Bergeronette, a rich caramel brown ideal with grey’s, blue’s, and brown’s and as always a pair of dark denim jeans.

Check Availability HERE.

Satan 001 Last, Bergeronette Calfskin

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Alfred Sargent Milton

Our trunk show with Alfred Sargent is Thursday September 22.The show will feature the AS Handgrade collection including several new models. We invite you to stop by from 11-7 and meet Chay Cooper AS Product Director. Chay will be here to discuss the collection and take your custom order.

In anticipation of the event we will be highlighting recent shoes made to order by Sargent’s. This is the Milton wholecut in black calf.

Milton AS53 Last, Black Calf, Fiddleback Soles Crib Edge – MTO

 

 

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The Elegance

The Aubercy wholecut is one of the most elegant shoes in our collection. For some reason it seems to draw strong attention from women when they are in the store. This is a very chic shoe and would do very well in a formal setting. In fact one of our clients recently purchased a pair to wear with his tuxedo.

I chose the red lining because of the nostalgic feeling I get when I think of black tuxedos lined in red Ala the Rat Pack, although I’m pretty sure they wore pumps with bows. Regardless, that was the inspiration.

I also like the hand-punched lines that create a very sleek and graceful look. It adds another level of interest that a plain wholecut lacks.

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